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RoadRunner New Orleans: From Tunes to Tombs: Les Bons Temps Rouler
Written by: Troy Hendrick
RoadRunner Magazine   http://www.roadrunner.travel
New Orleans, LA
 
Bourbon Stret provides entertainment no matter what time of year. (Photo: Troy Hendrick) ยป More Photos

With a full moon overhead, a warm spring breeze hums through the streets of New Orleans. I'm walking down Magazine Street to the French Quarter with the pulse of excitement quickening within. A man in a mask walks by with a drink in his hand. At the corner of Bourbon and Canal, another man quotes biblical warnings dark as the night. I walk toward the neon glare, the music and the crowds, beyond the point where cars are allowed in the Quarter.

Past the barricades, Bourbon Street is decked out like a huge New Year's Eve bash in mid-March. All ages, genders, and cross-genders stumble happily through the streets, littered with thousands of plastic cups. The thumping beat of dance music is mixed with the steady repetition of blues chords. Smoke spills from dark doorways. Hustlers try
to get my attention and a look at my wallet. A crowd catcalls to the women on the balcony above a bar. One obliges with a jiggling flash that's followed by cheers and beads flying ten at a time. No discernible system or order appear to make it past the barricades, so I grab my first drink of the night and join the party.

New Orleans is hidden at the very bottom corner of this country in an oxbow of the Mississippi River. Descendants of French, Spanish, and African cultures have blended a way of life that exists nowhere else in the world. The home of Marie Leveaux and stateside voodoo, the setting for Anne Rice novels, the birthplace of jazz and most other forms of American music, New Orleans celebrates its iconoclasm and hosts Mardi Gras, the nation's biggest party each year.
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