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Motorcycling Destinations
DESTINATIONS: Touring The Alps
Neale Bayly tours the majestic Alps of Austria.
Touring the Alps. (Photo: Neale Bayly)
The dog days of summer have slowed the pace of life to a crawl, with seemingly endless triple-digit temperatures scorching the earth and boiling my brain. Riding home after dark, even the slither of moon hanging low in the early evening sky is on fire. Sweat rolls into my eyes and every warm, moist breath feels labored. Battling traffic, waiting for lights to turn green, and inhaling car fumes, I start daydreaming about cool Alpine passes. Of twisting roads, climbing and tumbling through sweet smelling pine forests, of strong coffee and clear mountain lakes at the base of picturesque mountains, and small, family run hotels that serve fantastic cuisine a short walk from my comfortable room.
Lying back on a blanket of soft, green grass, peppered with brightly colored wild flowers, I fill my lungs with crisp mountain air. Above, the clearest, brightest blue sky competes with the lazy billowing clouds in nature’s own beauty contest. Jagged peaks thrust out of the frame of vibrant green and brown trees that ring my horizon, and with a smile that warms through to my soul I close my eyes. Five days of riding through the European Alps has brought my own personal nirvana, as my mind drifts back to the heat and congestion I have left behind in America.
Flying into Munich on a cool, damp day in late August, summer was quickly forgotten as I joined my fellow Alpine sojourners on the bus to collect our rental BMWS, the bikes that would carry us through the technically challenging roads of the European Alps for the next nine days. An eclectic mix of races, religions, nationalities, ages, and political beliefs, we came together as group of strangers, destined to share the experience of a lifetime, an experience that would see a close group of friends sadly saying goodbye nine days later. Talkers, listeners, joke tellers, wise men, and caring ladies, we came from all walks of life, linked by a common thread, the love of motorcycles, the thrill of discovery, and the fun of meeting new and interesting people.
For most of our group it was their first motorcycle ride in Europe, so later that first evening we discussed some of the idiosyncrasies of riding in Europe. Thankfully, our group was largely comprised of veteran riders, ranging from a motorcycle policeman to a safety instructor, with a solid number of high mileage riders in between. Ably led by the amazing Peter Lintschinger, an Austrian motorcycle policeman in his regular life, it was perfect that he knows the Alps like the back of his hand, and we couldn’t have designed a better guide by committee. Brimming with personality, possessed with a tireless enthusiasm and intimate knowledge of his country and surrounding areas, there was never a dull moment with Peter at the helm.
Departing Bad Tolz under a heavy fortress of swollen rain clouds, the first day of riding across Germany into Austria would prove the metal of our group, and reveal the strength of character they possessed. Quickly turning to a full wet ride, as heavy rain began to fall, Peter detoured us off our route to spend a couple of hours on a walking tour in Salzburg. As we wandered through the city that claims Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart for its chosen son, we marveled at the Baroche architecture and the incredible number of beautifully restored churches.
Leaving Salzburg in a steadily increasing downpour, the amount of water in the Salzach River told us there was some serious rain falling in the mountains above us, although their peaks remained hidden in the thick, dark clouds. With the day sliding away, we were heading for Peter’s hometown of Tamsweg, and the conditions grew steadily worse as the temperatures dropped into the low forties. Sticking tightly together in a line, we would all soon learn that touring Europe was not for inexperienced riders, as we had our skills tested to the limit on the slick, Austrian mountain roads.
On arrival at our hotel, our smiling host whipped out his typed list, handed us our relevant room keys, and an hour later we were tucking into a superb home cooked meal in the hotel restaurant. Sitting around the dinner table on that first night, if anyone had been unhappy you couldn’t have guessed, the conversation was lively and animated. This simple routine became the format that we would stick to for the duration of our journey, as we enjoyed wonderful accommodation, great food, and personable, attentive service from our gracious hosts.
Lying back on a blanket of soft, green grass, peppered with brightly colored wild flowers, I fill my lungs with crisp mountain air. Above, the clearest, brightest blue sky competes with the lazy billowing clouds in nature’s own beauty contest. Jagged peaks thrust out of the frame of vibrant green and brown trees that ring my horizon, and with a smile that warms through to my soul I close my eyes. Five days of riding through the European Alps has brought my own personal nirvana, as my mind drifts back to the heat and congestion I have left behind in America.
Flying into Munich on a cool, damp day in late August, summer was quickly forgotten as I joined my fellow Alpine sojourners on the bus to collect our rental BMWS, the bikes that would carry us through the technically challenging roads of the European Alps for the next nine days. An eclectic mix of races, religions, nationalities, ages, and political beliefs, we came together as group of strangers, destined to share the experience of a lifetime, an experience that would see a close group of friends sadly saying goodbye nine days later. Talkers, listeners, joke tellers, wise men, and caring ladies, we came from all walks of life, linked by a common thread, the love of motorcycles, the thrill of discovery, and the fun of meeting new and interesting people.
For most of our group it was their first motorcycle ride in Europe, so later that first evening we discussed some of the idiosyncrasies of riding in Europe. Thankfully, our group was largely comprised of veteran riders, ranging from a motorcycle policeman to a safety instructor, with a solid number of high mileage riders in between. Ably led by the amazing Peter Lintschinger, an Austrian motorcycle policeman in his regular life, it was perfect that he knows the Alps like the back of his hand, and we couldn’t have designed a better guide by committee. Brimming with personality, possessed with a tireless enthusiasm and intimate knowledge of his country and surrounding areas, there was never a dull moment with Peter at the helm.
Departing Bad Tolz under a heavy fortress of swollen rain clouds, the first day of riding across Germany into Austria would prove the metal of our group, and reveal the strength of character they possessed. Quickly turning to a full wet ride, as heavy rain began to fall, Peter detoured us off our route to spend a couple of hours on a walking tour in Salzburg. As we wandered through the city that claims Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart for its chosen son, we marveled at the Baroche architecture and the incredible number of beautifully restored churches.
Leaving Salzburg in a steadily increasing downpour, the amount of water in the Salzach River told us there was some serious rain falling in the mountains above us, although their peaks remained hidden in the thick, dark clouds. With the day sliding away, we were heading for Peter’s hometown of Tamsweg, and the conditions grew steadily worse as the temperatures dropped into the low forties. Sticking tightly together in a line, we would all soon learn that touring Europe was not for inexperienced riders, as we had our skills tested to the limit on the slick, Austrian mountain roads.
On arrival at our hotel, our smiling host whipped out his typed list, handed us our relevant room keys, and an hour later we were tucking into a superb home cooked meal in the hotel restaurant. Sitting around the dinner table on that first night, if anyone had been unhappy you couldn’t have guessed, the conversation was lively and animated. This simple routine became the format that we would stick to for the duration of our journey, as we enjoyed wonderful accommodation, great food, and personable, attentive service from our gracious hosts.
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